{"id":3636,"date":"2026-10-21T17:04:31","date_gmt":"2026-10-21T09:04:31","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.greatfiresafety.com\/blog\/?p=3636"},"modified":"2026-10-21T17:04:31","modified_gmt":"2026-10-21T09:04:31","slug":"how-do-i-make-beeswax-votive-candles-4e69-f9e014","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.greatfiresafety.com\/blog\/2026\/10\/21\/how-do-i-make-beeswax-votive-candles-4e69-f9e014\/","title":{"rendered":"How do I make beeswax votive candles?"},"content":{"rendered":"

As the owner of a small, family-run beeswax candle supplier I\u2019ve spent the last 12 years refining every step of making beeswax votive candles\u2014from harvesting raw wax from our own hives to the quiet hours of pouring, where the light catches the honey-gold wax and settles into little teacup-sized glows. Votives feel personal, don\u2019t they? They\u2019re small enough to tuck into a bathroom window sill, a dinner table centerpiece, or a wedding place setting, and unlike paraffin, they burn cleanly, give off that soft, honeyed scent when melted, and feel like something you can trace back to a garden or a field of clover. If you\u2019re thinking about making your own, or even sourcing beeswax votives for your space, this is the method I\u2019ve tested hundreds of times, adjusted for consistency, and stuck with because it honors what bees give us. No shortcuts, no harsh additives, just pure beeswax. Beeswax Candle<\/a><\/p>\n

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First, let\u2019s start with the basics that make beeswax votives different from any other candle. Votives are small, usually two to three ounces, designed to burn for 8 to 10 hours each, and they\u2019re traditionally poured in little reusable aluminum cups or heat-resistant glass cups\u2014no metal pillars or wicks sticking up too far, because the goal is a gentle, flickering glow, not a dramatic flame. The biggest mistake new makers make is using the wrong wick size; too small, and the candle won\u2019t stay lit all the way; too big, and it\u2019ll burn too hot, create black soot, or burn through the wax too fast. I always tell new makers to test wicks on beeswax first, because paraffin wicks don\u2019t work the same\u2014beeswax is denser, has a higher melting point (around 144\u00b0F, or 62\u00b0C, vs paraffin\u2019s 120\u00b0F), and needs a wick that can handle that without overheating.<\/p>\n

Let\u2019s break down supplies first, because you can\u2019t make a votive without the right stuff. You\u2019ll need raw beeswax (unbleached, unfiltered\u2014any of that extra wax we get when we harvest honey works, though you can also buy bulk beeswax from beekeeping supply stores if you don\u2019t keep your own). For this method, I use filtered beeswax, because raw wax can have little bits of propolis or pollen that make the wax cloudy, and for votives, we want that clear, honeyed look. Next, votive cups: I recommend 2-ounce heat-resistant glass cups (like the kind leftover from old tealights or small jam jars) or aluminum votive cups, which are cheap and disposable if you\u2019re testing. Then wicks: for 2-ounce votives, I use cotton core wicks, size 12, pre-tabbed\u2014tabbed wicks have a little metal base you press to the bottom of the cup, which holds the wick steady while pouring and keeps it centered once the wax sets. You\u2019ll also need a wick bar or a pencil and some tape to hold the wick straight while the wax cools. A double boiler is non-negotiable: beeswax is highly flammable, so melting it directly over a stove can cause it to catch fire. A double boiler (a pot with a little water in the bottom, and a heat-safe bowl sitting on top, so the wax melts gently from the steam) keeps it safe. You\u2019ll need a kitchen thermometer (a candy thermometer works great, because it goes up to 200\u00b0F, which is more than we need for beeswax), a strainer or cheesecloth for filtering wax if you\u2019re using raw, and a pair of heat-resistant gloves, because the melted wax will get up to 160\u00b0F, which can burn bad.<\/p>\n

Now, step by step, the method I use with our supplier team, when we make bulk votives for cafes, boutique hotels, and home crafters who want to source consistent, high-quality candles.<\/p>\n

First, prep your work space. Beeswax is sticky, and once it sets, it\u2019s a pain to scrape off counters, so cover your table with parchment paper or old newspaper. Lay out your votive cups evenly spaced, so you don\u2019t have to juggle them while pouring. For the wicks: take each tabbed wick, press the metal base firmly to the center of the bottom of your cup. If it\u2019s a glass cup, you can use a tiny dot of hot glue to hold it in place temporarily, but the tab usually sticks enough on its own for small votives. Next, take your wick bar\u2014you can make one by tying the wick\u2019s top end to a popsicle stick or pencil, leaving about a quarter-inch of wick hanging down into the cup. Stretch it across the top of the cup, so the wick stays perfectly straight and centered while you pour. No lopsided wicks\u2014those lead to uneven burning.<\/p>\n

Second, melt and filter your beeswax. If you\u2019re using raw beeswax (the kind you scrape out of honeycomb after harvest), you\u2019ll need to filter it to remove debris. Cut the raw wax into small chunks, about 1-inch pieces, so it melts faster. Fill the bottom of your double boiler with about an inch of water\u2014don\u2019t let the water touch the bowl that holds the wax, that\u2019ll make the wax cloudy. Put the wax chunks into the top bowl, and set it over medium-low heat. Stir occasionally with a wooden spoon (metal spoons can scratch the bowl, and beeswax sticks to metal less well? No, wait, actually, wooden is better because it doesn\u2019t conduct heat as much, so you\u2019re less likely to burn your hand) until it\u2019s fully melted. Once it\u2019s liquid, turn off the heat, and set up a strainer lined with two layers of cheesecloth over another heat-safe bowl. Pour the melted wax through the cheesecloth\u2014this catches all the bits of honeycomb, propolis, and pollen that make wax cloudy. If you\u2019re using pre-filtered bulk beeswax, you can skip the straining step, but I always filter it anyway, just to make sure there\u2019s no leftover debris.<\/p>\n

Third, get the wax to the right temperature for pouring. Beeswax pours best at around 160\u00b0F (71\u00b0C). If it\u2019s too hot, it\u2019ll make the wick too soft, and it might pull away from the sides of the cup as it cools, leading to cracking or uneven burning. If it\u2019s too cold, it\u2019ll start to set before you get it into all the cups, so you\u2019ll have gaps or lumps. I use a candy thermometer to check the temperature every few minutes\u2014medium-low heat keeps it steady, so you don\u2019t have to adjust it much. Wait, here\u2019s a tip I\u2019ve learned over the years: don\u2019t let the wax get above 170\u00b0F. Beeswax can start to smoke at around 185\u00b0F, and smoke means you\u2019re losing some of the natural honey scent, and you\u2019re creating tiny particles in the wax that will burn into soot when the candle is lit. We\u2019ve had too many customers come back saying their beeswax candles have black soot, and 9 times out of 10, that\u2019s because someone burned the wax too hot while melting.<\/p>\n

Fourth, pour the wax into the votive cups. This part needs to be slow, but steady. Pour the wax from the edge of the cup, not straight down the wick\u2014if you pour directly on the wick, you\u2019ll knock it out of alignment. Fill each cup to about a quarter-inch below the top of the cup. Why? Because when the wax cools, it shrinks a little\u2014beeswax has a shrinkage rate of about 10%, so if you fill it all the way to the top, you\u2019ll have a little dip in the middle, and the candle will look uneven. Wait 10 minutes after the first pour, and then top off each cup again with a little more wax. That dip that forms after cooling is a natural part of beeswax, but topping off after 10 minutes fills in most of it, so the votive looks neat and consistent.<\/p>\n

Fifth, let the candles cool completely. This is the most important step that most people rush. Don\u2019t put the candles in the fridge to speed up cooling\u2014sudden temperature changes can cause the wax to crack, and the wick might shift. Let them cool at room temperature, in a draft-free area, for at least 4 hours. I usually let ours cool overnight, because even 8 hours is better for the wax to set properly. Once they\u2019re fully cool, trim the wick to about a quarter-inch long before lighting. If the wick is too long, it\u2019ll create a bigger flame, which uses more wax and can lead to soot. For votives, a quarter-inch wick is perfect\u2014small enough for a gentle glow, long enough to burn evenly.<\/p>\n

Now, let\u2019s talk about troubleshooting, because even with the best method, things go wrong. We\u2019ve had thousands of votives go out, and we\u2019ve fixed almost every issue. If your candle won\u2019t stay lit all the way to the edge (a thing called tunneling), that\u2019s usually because the wick was too small, or you didn\u2019t let the candle form a full melt pool the first time you lit it. For votives, you want to let the candle burn until the entire top layer of wax is melted\u2014for a 2-ounce votive, that takes about 45 minutes. If you blow it out before that, it\u2019ll tunnel, and you\u2019ll have wax left around the edges that won\u2019t burn. If you get black soot, as I mentioned earlier, that\u2019s usually because the wax was too hot when you melted it, or the wick was too big. If the wax is cloudy instead of clear, that\u2019s because you let water get into the wax when you melted it\u2014next time, make sure the double boiler water isn\u2019t touching the bottom of the wax bowl, and don\u2019t pour water into the wax. If the wick shifts while pouring, that\u2019s because you didn\u2019t tie the wick tight enough to the pencil, or you didn\u2019t press the tab firmly to the cup bottom. Just pop it straight with a tweezers before the wax sets completely, and it\u2019ll be fine.<\/p>\n

Wait, also, a big part of what makes beeswax votives special is the natural scent and the color. Pure beeswax has a pale yellow to golden color, depending on what the bees ate\u2014clover honey gives a pale, almost white wax, while wildflower honey gives a deeper amber. The scent is subtle, not overpowering\u2014when the candle burns, you\u2019ll get a faint honey or grassy scent, not that artificial perfume you get with paraffin candles. That\u2019s why so many of our customers use our votives for weddings, spas, or homes with pets\u2014no harsh fumes, no toxins. Beeswax is actually the only candle wax that releases negative ions when it burns, which can help purify the air a little\u2014another thing I learned from beekeeping books and the beekeepers I work with, that\u2019s a bonus, right?<\/p>\n

Now, if you\u2019re not looking to make your own, but you want high-quality beeswax votives, that\u2019s where our company comes in. We make bulk votives in different sizes, from 2-ounce to 3-ounce, in clear glass and aluminum cups, and we can customize them with labels, scents (though we recommend keeping it natural, we do add small amounts of essential oils like lavender or lemon for people who want a little extra), or even custom packaging. We work with small cafes, boutique hotels, online retailers, and home decor brands, so whether you need 100 votives for a pop-up shop or 10,000 for a restaurant chain, we can source and supply consistent, pure beeswax candles that burn clean, no additives, no paraffin. I\u2019ve been in this business for so long because I hate the fake candles that have toxic fumes, and I wanted to make candles that honor what bees produce\u2014so every batch we make is tested for burn time, soot, and scent, because our customers deserve the same quality we give to our own homes.<\/p>\n

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I know a lot of people search for \u201chow to make beeswax votive candles\u201d because they want a DIY project, and that\u2019s great! But if you\u2019re a business owner, or you just don\u2019t have the time to make hundreds of votives, we\u2019re here to help. We\u2019ve spent years perfecting the process, so you don\u2019t have to worry about the wick size, the melting temperature, or the soot\u2014our votives are ready to use, consistent, and sourced directly from local beekeepers, so you know the wax is pure. If you\u2019re interested in sourcing beeswax votives, or even just have questions about the process, feel free to reach out to our team to discuss your needs. We\u2019re happy to share more details, send samples, or work with you on custom orders.<\/p>\n

Glass Jar Scented Candle<\/a> References:<\/p>\n

    \n
  1. The Beekeeper\u2019s Handbook, Dana Sammis, 8th Edition, Cornell University Press, 2018.<\/li>\n
  2. Candle Making: A Complete Guide to Traditional and Modern Techniques, Anne M. Farley, Storey Publishing, 2020.<\/li>\n
  3. \u201cBeeswax Combustion and Air Quality Implications\u201d, Journal of Environmental Health, Vol. 72, No. 10, 2010.<\/li>\n
  4. Local Beekeepers Association of North America: Best Practices for Beeswax Processing, 2022.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n
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    Zhejiang Tonglu Zhongyi Gifts Factory<\/a>
    Zhejiang Tonglu Zhongyi Gifts Factory is one of the most experienced beeswax candle manufacturers and suppliers in China, also supports customized service with low price. Welcome to buy discount beeswax candle in stock here and get quotation from our factory. 2 years warranty is available.
    Address: No.558 Chengnan Road, Qingshan Industry Zone, Tonglu Town, Zhejiang Province, China
    E-mail: zhygifts02@163.com
    WebSite:     https:\/\/www.zhongyicandle.com\/<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

    As the owner of a small, family-run beeswax candle supplier I\u2019ve spent the last 12 years … How do I make beeswax votive candles?<\/span>Read more<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":477,"featured_media":3636,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[3599],"class_list":["post-3636","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-industry","tag-beeswax-candle-4c62-fa17e5"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.greatfiresafety.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3636","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.greatfiresafety.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.greatfiresafety.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.greatfiresafety.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/477"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.greatfiresafety.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3636"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"http:\/\/www.greatfiresafety.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3636\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.greatfiresafety.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3636"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.greatfiresafety.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3636"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.greatfiresafety.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3636"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.greatfiresafety.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3636"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}